Our first days in Madagascar are behind us – and we have not been idle since we started!
We spent the weekend in picturesque Ambodifototra, located on the island of Nosy Boraha. We attended and documented the local music festival, Festival des baleines, held in honour of the whales that arrive near the island in July and August. The festival brought together bands from several regions of the island. Along with the locals, we absorbed the sounds of traditional Malagasy music, observed expressive dances, admired colourful costumes and enjoyed popular hits by Malagasy artists. We were all given a pervasive feeling of happiness, known here as falifaly.
We managed to interview the opening duo of both days of the festival, Vola Soa, which freely translates as ‘Good Money’. Two friendly musicians of about sixty years of age – Tamba Nobert and Jean Louis – introduced us to the world of the valiha zither, of which Tamba is a virtuoso. This is the flagship instrument of the region, with a delicate sound somewhat reminiscent of the banjo, described by the artists as “the music of all Madagascar”. Valiha instruments are mainly made of bamboo or metal sheeting, the kind used to construct roofs. They accompany all happy occasions – weddings, family celebrations, numerous rituals. With the help of the valiha, it is also possible to put people into a trance under the cover of darkness (although not exclusively). Tamba decorated the instrument himself with paintings of the moon and stars; as the musicians explained, when playing the valiha, it is necessary to connect with the celestial bodies with one’s mind, in order to show respect and reverence to the spirits of ancestors and nature. The local community lives in closeness and harmony with nature – this is reflected in various aspects of their lives and translates into their approach to practising art.
Jean accompanies Tamba and creates the rhythmic layer on a drum called a bingy. It is a small-sized djembe accompanied by a kaiamba rattle made from an old metal can. The duo has been playing together almost all their lives, for 40 years now. Although the musicians’ daily occupation is farming, making music is their greatest passion and joy. Playing for people makes them happy and makes them give happiness to others. As they stated, “when a person is sad, they don’t have the strength or desire to move and dance”. Valiha helps everyone to feel the falifaly: to plunge into joyful dances, to experience the rhythm and the music with their whole selves – to feel the true, uninhibited joy of life.
To be continued…
Photos by Łukasz Smoluch
